Mountain gorilla trekking in Rwanda: eye to eye with the gentle giants

Rwanda | Small country with big animals

Rwanda is under the radar:

Those who travel to Africa for gorilla trekking visit its large neighbor Uganda, and only a few tours offered by major tour operators include Rwanda.

In my daily work at the travel agency, I have also noticed that very few travelers who want to go gorilla trekking consider visiting Rwanda on their own, independently. Many people still have vivid memories of the news reports and images of the genocide in the 1990s: in 100 days, almost 1 million people, mainly Tutsis, were brutally murdered with machetes and clubs by Hutus. Neighbors killed neighbors, men, women, and children. The country bears a heavy historical burden, and coming to terms with the past involves many social hurdles. 

Today, there are hardly any traces left of this period. Paul Kagame, the current autocratic president, rules the country with an iron fist and promises his people a quick path to modernity. And he is making great strides forward.

Is Rwanda worth visiting?

I don't think you, as my reader, would assume that I would write this article if that weren't the case. So the answer is a resounding YES! Rwanda is worth a visit. Hardly any other destination will surprise you as much.

If you are a fan of slow travel, you will benefit from the short distances in Rwanda. You can see a lot in the time you have available without having to change accommodation frequently or travel hundreds of kilometers. You can visit all of Rwanda's highlights in 7–10 days.

The main attraction in Rwanda is gorilla tracking in Volcanoes National Park. Around 10 habituated gorilla families live on the Rwandan side of the border with Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Those who come to Rwanda solely for gorilla trekking have a short journey: you can fly out of Frankfurt in the morning and arrive at your lodge in Volcanoes National Park by late evening.

Getting there is pretty easy: after a flight time of around 10.5 hours (with a short stopover in Brussels), you will land in the Rwandan capital of Kigali. The transfer from Kigali to Volcanoes National Park in northwestern Rwanda takes around 2 to 3 hours. Check into your chosen lodge in the national park in the late evening. This means you can be ready for the briefing with the park rangers and your gorilla trekking tour at 7 a.m. the next morning.

Wow, Rwanda. Hats off!

In some areas, Rwanda serves as a role model beyond Africa.

Would you have expected that?

The present (and future) of Rwanda is female. The advancement of women is a declared goal of the government. According to the World Economic Forum, Rwanda ranks fifth worldwide when it comes to gender equality. By comparison, Germany ranks twelfth. 

Equality is enshrined in Rwanda's constitution. Women receive strong support, including favorable loans if they want to start their own businesses, and training in entrepreneurship.

And who would have thought it: since 2008 (yes, that's not a typo) , it has been illegal in Rwanda to import, produce, sell or even simply possess plastic bags. This is enforced by the state and strictly prosecuted. There is even a plastic police force. Anyone who fails to comply faces heavy fines.

The last Saturday of every month is Umuganda Day. All Rwandans are called upon to clean up and tidy up the entire country. Even the president joins in, wearing rubber boots. Neighbourly help is very important: once the work for the community is done, neighbours help each other with smaller construction projects. German travellers particularly like this: the backyards and other areas along the way are – from a German perspective – enviably clean and tidy. You won't find this in other countries.

Rwanda thus serves as a role model not only for Africa but for the whole world in three important areas: equality, community spirit, and animal and environmental protection.

By the way, Rwanda's landscape is incredible. Incredibly lush green rainforests, hills, volcanoes, and mountains—as far as the eye can see.

Vulcanoes National Park – home to Rwanda's last remaining mountain gorillas, a species threatened with extinction

Further bamboo and mountain cloud forests and dense fog over the peaks of extinct and lush green volcanoes (Mount Visoke 3,711 meters, Mount Mikeno 4,437 meters) create an appropriately mystical atmosphere.

The mountain range stretches across the Democratic Republic of Congo and on to Uganda. Ten habituated gorilla families live on the Rwandan side, while there are 15 families in Impenetrable Bwindi National Park in Uganda.

Dian Fossey – "The woman who lives alone in the forest"

This was also the domain of the renowned primatologist Dian Fossey, without whom there would likely be no gorillas left today. She devoted her entire life to these "gentle giants" and drew attention to the endangered primates through films, reports, and books. Her autobiography,Gorillas in the Mist: My Life with the Gentle Giants,"in which she describes her life with the gorillas in the Virunga Mountains and her scientific work. The book was even made into a film in 1988, with Sigourney Weaver in the lead role. The film "Gorillas in the Mist: The Passion of Dian Fossey"*won a Golden Globe and was nominated for an Oscar. 

The legend of Dian Fossey lives on:

Her radical stance did not make her universally popular. On December 27, 1985, Dian Fossey was found murdered at her Karisoke Camp in Rwanda. Many myths surround her violent death, as the murderer was never found. It was her wish to be buried in the gorilla cemetery next to some of her beloved gorillas. Her grave on the southern slope of the Visoke volcano can be visited as part of a fairly challenging trekking tour.

Visiting the mountain gorillas | Gorilla trekking in the Virunga Mountains

Every day, a maximum of 8–10 groups can walk in the footsteps of primates in the national park. Each group consists of approximately 7–8 guests, a head ranger (guide), and two assistants, one of whom walks at the front of the group and the other at the back. Both assistants carry rifles. This is, of course, only for safety reasons, as there have never been any attacks by primates to date.

You must be in perfect health on the day you visit the gorillas. Even the slightest sign of flu may result in you being denied access to the gorillas. The risk of transmitting viruses to the gorillas is too great.

Early in the morning, the first rangers climb the Virunga Mountains and relay the location of the gorilla families to the guides. While you are still at the briefing in the reception area, your guides already know where the families are.

There are no paved paths leading to the gorillas. Your route takes you through dense rainforest over uneven ground and rigid roots. The ranger assistants will often clear branches and twigs out of your way. It is a steady climb uphill. It is best to wear sturdy gardening gloves, as you will also be climbing up vines. During the briefing, participants are divided into different groups according to their level of fitness. Do not overestimate your abilities and assess your fitness realistically. The hike is physically very demanding and can take up to seven hours at altitudes of 1,500 to 2,000 meters.  Everyone is highly focused and the tension is palpable. Sometimes it takes up to three endless hours before you encounter "your" gorilla family.

And then comes an incredibly moving moment: just a few meters in front of you, the stately male suddenly appears. These colossal creatures can weigh up to 250 kg. And yet there they sit in front of you, chewing on bamboo sticks, completely unimpressed.

First, gather yourself and soak up this moment.

A few meters behind the male, two young are playing. They romp around like two human children and seem to be having a lot of fun. A family can have up to 20 members. 

Your guide already gave you the names of the little ones on the morning before the tour. He explained who belongs to "your" family, how many there are, what their names are, and what distinguishes each member. This makes the encounter feel more like a "family visit."

You will also receive further instructions from your ranger. He will advise you not to look the head of the family directly in the eye. He could interpret this as a challenge and, in the worst case, as a threat.

Once you have met "your" family, you will spend about 45 minutes with them. Then you will make your way back, exhausted but happy.

Visits to the mountain gorilla families are strictly limited by the government. The government only issues a small number of trekking permits per day, which every traveler must purchase. Due to these limitations, it is almost impossible to book this once-in-a-lifetime experience at short notice. To be on the safe side, book your gorilla trekking at least six months in advance. Of course, I will obtain the permits for you if you book your trip to Rwanda through me.

Gorilla trekking in Rwanda is significantly more expensive than in Uganda, but also more exclusive. In 2017, the cost almost doubled to US$1,500 per person. The revenue from the permits is used exclusively for gorilla conservation.

Goodbye Rwanda

I am sure that you will particularly enjoy this special evening after visiting the mountain gorillas. The encounter with these gentle giants will stay with you for a long time to come. 

Enjoy the evening with a sundowner in a fitting atmosphere, overlooking the mist-covered forests of Vulcanoe National Park, where "your" gorilla family also settles down to sleep.

We have various lodges in our program, but I would particularly like to recommend this special luxury eco-lodge:

Bisate Wilderness Lodge

Bisate Lodge, Wilderness Safari, Rwanda

*Affiliate link

Yours, Stephanie Gräf

Shall we stay in touch?