Northern Lights over the old trading post at Støtt

location

The bakery building stands in the heart of the historic trading post, just a few steps from the old general store—which houses a restaurant and a fishing museum—and from the pier where the speedboat docks. On this island, it takes no more than a few minutes to get anywhere anyway.

Rooms

The bakery has eight double rooms, which are the best in the building. Six of them have private bathrooms, and two share one; one of these two has its own kitchenette, a sitting area, and a view of the harbor. The rooms are available with either a double bed or two single beds.

Facilities

The building has been carefully restored and updated with modern amenities without losing its character. Amenities include down comforters, bed linens and towels, bathrobes and warm slippers, a hair dryer, toiletries in the bathroom, chocolate, coffee, and tea with a kettle, as well as an umbrella for the walk to the restaurant. The room also features a history of the trading post, an overview of activities, and the speedboat schedules. The decor reflects the period style of the house: antique furniture and elegant details from the trading post era.

The History of the House

In its heyday, up to a thousand fishermen —in addition to the island’s residents—would gather off the island during the fishing season, and they needed bread. According to tradition, the oven at the old bakery could bake sixty loaves at a time and ran from early morning until late at night. When the building burned down completely in 1878, the merchant Gotaas sailed to Åsvær, another trading post on the Helgeland coast, bought the entire post—including the bakery—and had everything transported by sea to Støtt. That’s how the house where you’re staying today ended up on this island in the first place. It has been open to guests again since 2018.

For whom

For anyone looking for the highest level of comfort on the island. Six of the eight rooms have private bathrooms; two share one.

location

The Rorbua stands where people used to work: right on the water, at the heart of the trading post. The restaurant, museum, and pier are all within walking distance, and the sheltered harbor with its pier begins right outside the door.

Rooms

The house is divided into two sections, each with its own entrance. Rorbua Nord has three double bedrooms, one bathroom, and a living room. Rorbua Sør has four double bedrooms, two bathrooms, and a living room. Both sections can be rented as a single unit, giving a group its own private space without having to share the house with strangers.

Facilities

The atmosphere and furnishings reflect the trading post’s heyday: period-style antique furniture and heavy down comforters, along with bed linens and towels, slippers, a hair dryer, toiletries in the bathroom, chocolate, coffee, and tea, as well as umbrellas. The living room serves as the common gathering place where guests hang their wet clothes to dry after their excursions. The bathrooms are shared within each section of the house; in Rorbua Nord, three rooms share one bathroom, while in Rorbua Sør, four rooms share two bathrooms.

The History of the House

A rorbu was the cabin where fishermen slept and ate during the fishing season. Here they prepared their fishing gear and baited the hooks on their longlines, often late into the night. Typically, these houses consisted of just two rooms: a storage area for food and equipment, and a living area with beds. With their bright red color and white trim, rorbu cabins remain a symbol of Norway’s maritime heritage to this day, and along the Helgeland coast, they stand where cod has been landed for centuries.

For whom

For families and groups of friends who live together and want to get together in their own living room in the evening. For many guests, the Rorbua is the top choice on Støtt.

location

The Stabburet is also part of the trading post complex and is thus just a few steps away from the restaurant, museum, and pier.

Rooms

The Stabburet is a two-story apartment that sleeps up to four people. The ground floor features the entrance, a cozy living room, and a restroom with a sink; the upper floor has a large bedroom with a double bed and two single beds. So you’re not staying in a single room here, but in a small house all to yourself.

Facilities

Just like in the other buildings at the post: period-style antique furniture, heavy down comforters, and charming details from the days when this was a trading post rather than a place to stay the night.

The History of the House

Every major trading post along the coast had a stabbur, where grain and food were stored, safe from moisture and rodents. The one at Støtt dates back to the 1700s, making it the oldest building on the island. The timber used for its construction must have been brought in entirely by sea; there was no other way out here. Later, the trading post’s staff lived in the granary.

For whom

For a couple or a family of four. The house is considered the most romantic in the area.

The Old Toy Store

Meals are served at Gammelbutikken, the trading post’s old store. Until 1959, this is where everything the island and the fishermen needed was sold: a wide range of goods, provisions, and equipment for the fishing season, plus a separate bar for spirits. The building itself was once moved from Åsvær to Støtt and was larger back then than it is today. A table is automatically reserved at the restaurant for overnight guests.

The Daily Routine

Breakfast is served from 7:30 a.m. to 9:00 a.m., and on Sundays until 9:30 a.m. Lunch is served from 1:00 p.m. to 3:00 p.m., with the last seating at 2:30 p.m. For dinner, starting at 6:30 p.m., all guests sit down together at the table. On weekdays, a three-course menu that changes daily is served, depending on which ingredients are at their best; on Saturdays, a five-course menu is served.

The Kitchen

The culinary concept draws on the town’s history: For centuries, merchants have served their guests generous portions of cod and halibut, whale meat, clipfish, stockfish, bacalao, and fish soup. A carefully selected wine pairing is offered with each meal; an expert advises the restaurant on putting together the wine list, and the bar also serves spirits and cocktails.

In-House Stockfish Drying

The restaurant is the only one in Norway that dries its own stockfish. Every March, large batches of cod and coastal cod are purchased directly from local fishermen, deboned, and hung on large racks outdoors. Ideal conditions include a good breeze and temperatures between zero and three degrees, which is exactly what March and April bring to Støtt. After about two months, the fish is taken down, soaked to prepare it, and skinned. The back pieces and the finer cuts are served as the main course, while smaller pieces go into the stockfish soup. Historically, Støtt was also the first production site for cod liver oil on the Helgeland coast.

Good to know

Please let us know about any food allergies or intolerances well in advance of your arrival so that the kitchen can make the necessary accommodations.

An item that is gradually making a comeback

The trading post is being restored building by building, as work progresses. In 2012, the restaurant opened in the old store; in 2014, the Stabburet and Rorbua were completed as accommodations; in 2015, the fishing museum and conference rooms on the upper floor were added; and in 2018, the bakery opened. So what you’ll see on your tour is a place still under construction, not a finished museum.

Rødbrygga

The red warehouse on the pier, dating from the 1820s or 1830s, is the building that dominates the view of the trading post. This is where the catch arrived and was processed: gutted, filleted, and salted. From this building, the clipfish set off on its journey to Bergen and onward to other countries. Inside, the warehouse is still awaiting restoration, which is planned for the coming years. From the outside, it remains the island’s landmark.

Telegraph Stations

The telegraph station, established in 1858, was the first between Sandnessjøen and Bodø, built on the initiative of the merchants Bonsak and Kristiane Bolette Gotaas. It moved into its own building in 1884, after the post office’s large main building had been demolished. For decades, this station provided the island’s fastest connection to the rest of the world.

Fishing Museum

On the upper floor above the restaurant, the museum tells the story of the fishermen’s lives, coastal trade in the age of sailing ships, and the craft of cod drying. Also on display there are the illustrations that Kaare Espolin Johnson created for Johan Bojer’s novel. In the summer, the room also serves as a second dining room.

Port and Wharf

The harbor is considered one of the best-protected on the coast, sheltered by the breakwater as well as offshore islets and reefs. The entrance faces southeast—precisely the direction from which the wind never blows here, because the mainland mountains and the Svartisen Glacier shield the archipelago. Coastal vessels used to dock at the steamship pier; today, that’s where the guided tour begins. Historically, the island also had its own excellent well water.

Support Kolonial

The island store on the pier serves both locals and visitors and also serves as a social gathering place, a post office, and a rental station for bicycles, kayaks, small boats, and fishing gear. For a community of about 25 year-round residents, this store is of vital importance. In the southern part of the main island, there are also barbecue areas and a shelter on the beach.

The guided tour weaves together three locations into a single narrative. The Fishing Museum, located on the upper floor of the old general store, focuses on the fishermen, the merchants, and coastal trade in the age of sailing ships, as well as stockfish and clipfish, and the artwork of Kaare Espolin Johnson. The subsequent walk through the fishing village showcases the trading post buildings and their former uses.

At the end of the hike, the trail climbs up to the Svenningen Plateau, home to bunkers and gun emplacements from World War II. From the top, the view stretches north across the Vestfjord to the peaks of the Lofoten Islands and south across the islands to the Meløy Alps. Feel free to ask the guide questions at any time along the way.

During the German occupation of Norway from 1940 to 1945, the islands around Støtt were strategically important for monitoring shipping along the coast. As part of the Atlantic Wall, concrete bunkers and fortifications were built to control maritime traffic and repel Allied attacks. Some of these structures served as observation posts and gun emplacements overlooking the open sea, while one bunker was used as a field hospital.

Today, the ruins lie silent in the landscape. The table is set among them, and the guide explains what the structures meant to the people on the island.

After dinner at the restaurant, the Northern Lights guide will take you up to the museum and show you a film about the Northern Lights. The film explores the myths and stories surrounding this phenomenon, as well as the scientific explanation behind it.

Afterward, we’ll head out together. The trail leads to base camp, where a fire will be lit and a hot drink served as you gaze at the sky. Away from the houses, the starry sky above the island is exceptionally clear and free of light pollution. Of course, we can’t promise that the Northern Lights will appear.

There are two ways to spend the morning at sea, and you can decide which one suits you best.

• On the yacht “Yara jenta,” you’ll head out to sea to catch cod, pollock, and halibut, accompanied by an experienced crew. Back on land, your catch will be turned into fish soup, which you’ll enjoy for lunch. The yacht trips are offered from June through September; for trips in October, you’ll head out to the nets and fish traps in an open boat.
• In traditional coastal fishing, you set gillnets—the kind that have always been used along this coast—and crab traps, which are baited, lowered to the seabed, and later hauled back up.

The waters off the Helgeland coast are among the most productive in Norway: Here, the cold, harsh climate meets the warm waters of the Gulf Stream, creating a nutrient-rich sea.

The sauna is located at the edge of the restaurant, right on the water. The contrast between the warmth inside and the cool sea air outside is what makes these hours so special, along with the sound of the waves and the vastness of the Arctic landscape all around.

One hour, scheduled for dusk. The guide will determine the exact time in the morning, as it shifts earlier each week in the fall: In early September, the sun sets around 8:30 p.m.; in early October, around 6:30 p.m.; and by late October, as early as 4:30 p.m.

The trail stays within the village and along the pier. It’s not about walking, but about looking around. Sturdy shoes are sufficient. A headlamp for the return trip is a good idea—there’s hardly any street lighting on the island. If you want to take photos, bring a tripod: the most interesting moments happen precisely when the exposure times get longer.

For this dinner, the table is set right on the shore, surrounded by islands and an open horizon. Waves and seabirds set the tone, and the menu remains a surprise until it’s served. Fresh, locally sourced meat is served as the sky shifts into soft shades of gold and pink. All around the table, there’s nothing but the sea and the sky.

The trip takes you between the rugged islands and into the hidden coves of the archipelago. White-tailed eagles circle above the boats: Støtt is an important breeding ground for Northern Europe’s largest bird of prey, and around 200 bird species have been recorded on the islands and the Kunna Peninsula.

Your guides will tell you about the landscape and wildlife. The islets and skerries around Støtt are part of the Støttværet Nature Reserve. You’ll eat your packed lunch either on board or on a small island.

Two and a half hours, from 6:30 p.m. to 9:00 p.m., at the restaurant in the old store. The chef serves six courses, explaining the origin of each one. Most of the ingredients come from the waters right outside the door or from the restaurant’s own stockfish-drying facility.

Wine pairings are not included in the tour price but can be ordered on site; a carefully selected pairing is available for each menu. Guests who do not wish to have wine can choose from local beers or non-alcoholic beverages.

Please let us know about any food allergies or intolerances before your arrival, so that the kitchen can adjust the courses accordingly. Outside of peak season, the menu can be adapted more flexibly to the group’s preferences anyway.

You can extend your stay beyond the scheduled program. Guided kayaking tours through the protected waters around the harbor and birdwatching on the island and the Kunna Peninsula are available year-round. Bicycles are available for rent on Støtt, and eight to nine kilometers of roads with little traffic run across the main island.

From there, the journey continues to Svartisen, the second-largest glacier on the Norwegian mainland, to the lighthouse on Kalsholmen, or to the island of Myken with its Arctic whiskey distillery. Prices and availability upon request.